My mention of getting a check up is because you have it quarantined, this suggests you have dealt with the infection(s) yourself, nothing wrong with that for some users, but when troubleshooting problems like this, or more importantly when security is involved, more so if doing any kind of money things like buying or banking, not to forget id theft, it is better safe than sorry, and it would help rule out one possible cause of problems, more so when there is evidence of an infection as in this case.
The problem with a motherboard fault is there is rarely a way to prove it, we can only prove the other components that can be tested, are OK or not, beyond that it becomes a leap of faith, and no one is going to suggest getting a new board unless they truly believe there is no other possible cause for the problem, and so far there is nothing to say one way or the other.
Should you feel the time is right for a new motherboard for more than just this situation, then it is certainly a good move, it means you get the board capable of what you need, and it removes this board from the equation, but it doesn't mean this problem is not still present, and is actually in something else, it also means you will have to reinstall, this would help rule out a corrupted OS, it's possible the infection caused some damage, and it's that corruption causing problems, which could easily be tested on this system by a reinstall if you wanted to check that out as a possible cause.
There is only 1 way to 100% guarantee from getting an infection online, that's to pull the plug and stop using the net, other than that we can only take the best precautions we can, yes the new(er) OS's are far more secure than ever before, but NO, it doesn't mean they can't be touched by anything nasty, there is a multi million £\$ industry out there always making new ways to catch people out and steal from them.
And they are getting more clever at it as technology moves forward, even mobiles are not safe, and will soon be a boom area for infection (if not already), and one of the latest tricks here was they are attacking cash points at the terminal level, drilling into them to access a USB port, and directly uploading an infection from a thumb drive to the cash machine directly, so ALWAYS be aware.
As to board makers, sorry but I will NEVER touch an EVGA board again, I got seriously stuffed by them with a board that became known for it's problems, initially they denied everything, then they had no choice but to admit it, then making me post the board abroad via insured post at my own expense before they accepted the board was at fault, before they sent another, but the postage was never returned, and they refused to let me change to another board in their range due to the horrendous issues that one had, that said many people probably have such a nightmare story about each of the makers.
Now Asrock as last I knew, were the budget range of Asus boards, but others may know better, and as a budget board you get what you pay for, that does not mean they are a bad board, it just won't have the same power and ability of a bigger name\model, I think the vast majority of builders prefer Gigabyte or Asus as their weapon of choice, because they have a proven history of reliability (but there are always ones to avoid) and performance, more so with overclockers as they demand the extreme from what they buy, but again it doesn't mean there are no other good choices about.
I used to go for the most expensive boards when I started, believing them to be the best, but unless you are going to be doing anything other than running the board at it's manufactured state, you can get a board for under half the cost, that will serve you just as well, so my advice is buy a good solid board, but unless you will be changing it's settings you will only be wasting money going for top end ones (in terms of what you need).
As to the kind of intense usage you require, I don't think the board has much to do with that, not compared to the CPU, and the higher end you go, the higher end a video card are the greatest power area's you need, not forgetting ram of course, 16gig would be a minimum I would personally look to for this, purely because it means it will do the same job with less effort than say 4gig, you know this already having 16gig I would guess, but when getting a new board (if you go that route), make sure the slots can take the ram, in stick size as well as spec.
Now I've just been going through all this again to try and refresh my mind, and I noticed your screenshots, this immediately raised a red flag to me when I noticed the voltage's, I would seriously check the PSU out, if the 12v reading is correct that is well out, unless I am missing something (quite possible with my arm currently), and if this is out, it will cause no end of varied problems, and have you going in circles, not to mention if it does go bad, it "could" take your entire system with it in the worst case, although it is a good unit, they are not infallible, so get this checked out ASAP to be safe.
Here is the chart I use as to what each lead should be within with it's power, if it does not come within the ranges shown then the PSU needs replacing, the good news is the PSU has a 5 year warranty if it is going bad, so with luck will still be new enough to be covered if needed, but they now show as out of stock, but face that problem once you prove the PSU to be bad, I hope I'm wrong, and\or the software is giving an incorrect reading, but if the reading is correct, then that is certainly the source of your problem, or at the least a major factor in it, so check that out before spending any money I would say.
