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Shopping for PSU

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Hi Folks,

I thought it would be wise to gather your recommendations before making a purchase.

The machine is Compaq Presario SR1900nx

It is presently running with:

SATA HD - 1
IDE HD - 1
RAM 2gb DDR PC3200
Integrated ATI Radeon Xpress 200 onboard video adapter
Running a ViewSonic LCD via onboard VGA connection

CDwriter/DVD ROM - 1
USB Ports - Front Panel - 2 - empty
USB Ports - Back Panel - 2 - (one occupied with external HD)
PCI slot - Ethernet adapter
PCI slot - dialup modem
PCI slot - empty
PCI slot - empty
The motherboard has one PCIe x16 slot - presently empty

There is onboard ethernet adapter but is not functioning (therefore the replacement with PCI Ethernet card above)

PSU - some no-name 300 watt unit
___________________________________________

Purpose:

I do a lot of email and spreadsheet type work with this machine.
I would very much like to run (2) two monitors - expanded
So that I can view email and spreadsheets and be able to drag-n-drop between screens.
As it is, I am going nuts switching between windows on a single monitor.

I do a significant amount of general browsing, mostly associated with research for these Forums.
I read the news and view an occasional news article streaming video, but do no gaming.
Yeah, I know. Sounds like a boring life. :blush:
But it gets confused and crowded frequently. :wacko:

So I want to install an ASUS 8600gt PCIe video card which would allow me to run one monitor - DVI, and a second - VGA

Problem is — I should have at least 400 watt PSU to run that card.

I've been looking here:
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/Ca…6&srkey=psu
Cost "is" an issue.

While I'm at it, I should inquire with you about a low cost substitute instead of using the ASUS 8600GT
That PCIe Video Adapter is actually intended for another machine that I should be building but haven't gotten to yet.
Therefore, I am "borrowing" it from the hopeful new build and will want it back.
But I will continue to use this present machine and will need a moderate performance PCIe card capable of running two Monitors.

this is the PCIe video card that I've looked at:
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/Se…p;Sku=E145-8510

I will also need a DVI connector cord since this DVI capable Monitor seems to have only come with a VGA connector cord.

Your thoughts and recommendations will be welcomed.

Oh, did I mention…. Cost is an issue. :)

Best Regards,
Doug
Here's my canned text on PSUs. The calculator is excellent - the paid version calculates UPS requirements too.

Use the eXtreme PSU Calculator Lite to determine your power supply unit (PSU) requirements. Plug in all the hardware you think you might have in 2 or 3 years (extra drives, bigger or 2nd video card, more RAM, etc.). Be sure to read and heed the notes at the bottom. I recommend you set Capacitor Aging to 30%, and if you participate in distributive computing projects (e.g. BOINC or Folding@Home), I recommend setting TDP to 100%. Research your video card and pay particular attention to the power supply requirements for your card listed on your video card maker's website. Then look for power supply brands listed under the "Good" column of PC Mechanic's PSU Reference List. Ensure the supplied amperage on the +12V rails of your chosen PSU meets the requirements of your video card. Don't try to save a few dollars by getting a cheap supply. Digital electronics, including CPUs, RAM, and today's advanced graphics cards, need clean, stable power. A good, well chosen supply will provide years of service and upgrade wiggle room. I strongly recommend you pick a supply with an efficiency rating equal to, or greater than 80%. Look for the 80 Plus - EnergyStar Compliant label. And don't forget to budget for a good UPS with AVR (automatic voltage regulation).

As far as graphics cards, unless you plan on using a CRT monitor for the next 3 or 4 years, I think it is a mistake to buy a card today that does not support 2 DVI or 2 HDMI ports. They all come with DVI to D-Sub adapters.

I've been running dual-monitor for several years, currently running with 2 Samsung 22" widescreen, with and XFX 6600GT 256Mb and no problems.
To throw my 2 cents in, There is a misconception that you can not have too big of a power supply. Wrong. Too much unused power will bleed through the circuits. Having too overpowered power supply will be just as bad as too underpowered power supply. 450 to 600 watts should be fine. But dont go too cheap as the power supply may pop on you.

There is a misconception that you can not have too big of a power supply.
Wrong. Too much unused power will bleed through the circuits.
Having too overpowered power supply will be just as bad as too underpowered power supply..

What? Sorry, but who's telling you that nonsense? That is WAY not true! That is not how electronics, which are governed by the Laws of Physics, works. Power supplies do not push power, circuits draw it depending on the load they present. A load (the PC) will draw what it needs, and that's it!

If a motherboard needs 300Watts, it will pull 300Watts regardless if the PSU is capable of 500Watt or 1KW. The common misconception is that a 650W supply, for example, draws 650W from the wall. Again, not true. It draws what it's load demands, plus any due to inefficiencies inherent in all power supplies as noted above.

If a power supply is leaking or bleeding power, it is a bad supply! Get a new one.

The only waste in having too big of a PSU is you probably spent more money on it than you needed. Certainly it is no good to have an underpowered supply, and one that is running near capacity for long periods of time may age a little faster due to constantly running at higher temperature. Therefore, some overhead is desired. But NO harm will be done by a properly working PSU that is more than what the user needs. In fact, that PSU will likely run nice and cool.
Well I was going to post the article that I got that from, until I found that I misread the article.
I was wrong.
(The artical was about matching the power supply voltage for laptops)
Time for bed

Well I was going to post the article that I got that from, until I found that I misread the article.
I was wrong.
(The artical was about matching the power supply voltage for laptops)
Time for bed

lol Don't you hate that? Yes damage can certainly occur with too much voltage. Glad you were able to find the article right away and get it sorted out or I know it would have meant an even later night!

Thanks.
Thank You, Digerati. I also appreciate your recommendation about DVI. I "hope" to not be using these old VGA CRT units three years from now. But it is what I've got. Looks like there are converter plugs from DVI to VGA that I can use for the time being. And Thanks HFCG. I'm glad you brought that one to our attention. Much obliged. Doug
Hmm, I never got a reply to this topic - not the first time that happened recently either. :(

Looks like there are converter plugs from DVI to VGA that I can use for the time being.

Every graphics card I have seen that was "DVI only" came with adapters in the box. Because they add about 2 inches of bulk that "hangs" off the graphics card connector, take care there is no additional downward pull on the cord.

You might want to look into HDMI cards. Over the next few years, DVI will fade away and everything will go HDMI. DVI carries video, HDMI carries the same video, plus 8 discreet high-def channels (7.1) of audio. Since the video is the same, simple DVI to HDMI adapters will be common for a long time.

It is important to note that for some applications, the best LCD monitors (digital or analog-only) cannot compete with the best CRT monitors - yet. CRT monitors are analog-only. Monitors in general have a decent lifespan and analog monitors still fill the entry level shelves for the budget conscious, or in the many applications where high resolutions are not needed. They satisfied users, or parents, or bosses. Analog support, along with some sort of inexpensive D-Sub (VGA) adapters, or adapter cables, for analog-only monitors will be around for a good many years.

Bottom line, while the desire is to save money now by purchasing for today, you save more money when you buy for tomorrow. A better PSU with a comfortable headroom will support you today, and carry you though a whole new motherboard/CPU/RAM swap a couple years down the road. An HDMI graphics card today will support the HDMI monitor (including TV or home theater) of the future, and with an adapter, will support the legacy hardware until budget allows, or the legacy hardware gives up the ghost.
Hi Digerati,

Hmm, I never got a reply to this topic - not the first time that happened recently either.

I presume you mean that you didn't get email notification of new responses in this thread?
If so, I don't know why it may have happened that way.
Such board mechanics are above my pay-grade, but I believe that the issue has been raised and worked on elsewhere.

And thanks Da Chew. Yes, your linked images illustrate the machine I am working with here.
It does seem "a little cramped" in there, and HP provided for quite a bit of options for added components, with a measly 300 watt no-name PSU. Unrealistic and misleading for the average user in my opinion.
I'm glad I don't have high expectations for the machine.

As to my OP concerns in this thread, thank you all for the great information and recommendations.

I've ordered:
Corsair VX550W 550W Power Supply (C13-250)
EVGA GeForce 9500 GT 512MB PCIe w/Dual Link DVI (E145-9500 )

Both represent a little more than I wanted to spend and a lot less than what I'd like to be able to acquire.
But I believe both are in a good range to satisfy the general requirements for this machine in the foreseeable future.
I'll post back with my successful outcome (or not) when I get the parts installed.

Best Regards
I like Newegg too and do most of my business with them. However, I also do a bit with ZipZoomFly - formally GoogleGear years ago, but reportedly forced, or paid handsomely (depending on who you listen to) by some big Internet company ;) to change their name. MWave, is another I buy from a lot. Note they all play around with prices and shipping costs, but in the end, there is usually little difference in the final bills. So don't just go by listed costs - figure in shipping too. MWave has a great Motherboard Wizard that will match 100s of current motherboards to compatible CPUs and RAM. Very handy for newbies and pros alike. No guess work, and a small discount too. Or, if you already have a specific CPU in mind, it will give you a list of dozens of compatible boards, and lots of RAM options. And for only $9 more for US customers, they will install the RAM and CPU, power it all up and make sure each components works, and most importantly, works together. Although I always remount the heatsink so I know what kind of TIM is used and that it was applied right, the extra $9 to be certain there are no DOA components is often worth it. It costs an extra day before delivery, but the risk is weeks or longer for an RMA replacement.

I presume you mean that you didn't get email notification of new responses in this thread?

I did not get an email notice there was a reply to my previous post. Other replies in the thread, before and after, have generated emails.

Replacing those cheap, flat, ribbon cable air-flow disruptors with nice round cables of the proper length would be advisable. I don't recommend counting on PSU cooling to augment case cooling. It does help draw cool air in, but the PSU would do better with warm case air to draw from instead of hot air waiting for somewhere to go. If that image DaChew included does look like this computer, it looks like there is a nice fan mount in front, ready for a fan to draw cool in - a simple solution for more cooling.
In the current configuration, there is already a 120mm case fan installed and venting out the back. Looks to me that both case fan and PSU fan are designed to draw heated air out the back of the case. Cool air is drawn in from Front Panel - Bottom, presumable to cause the fresh air to flow past the HDs as well as across the MoBo and PCI / PCIe cards. The removable Side Panel is also "vented with one 5"x4", one 1"x5", and one 1 1/2"x4" perforated spaces. From the looks of dust accumulation on the outside surface, those vents see alot of airflow. I haven't checked for space, but it might be possible to mount an 80 or 120 fan inside of the larger vent to force more air into the case. I don't know what that would do with the original circulation pattern.
Thank you all who offered help and recommendations. I used the products that I listed above. I installed the PSU with little difficulty. The new PSU has about a half dozen additional power connectors that I'm not using. I tucked them into an unused optical drive bay and they do seem to be out of the way and not blocking airflow. The 24 pin 12v connector was straight forward, as was the power connector for the optical drive, one IDE HD and one SATA HD That left the (4 or 8 pin) 12 connection to the MoBo. My Mobo has a 4 pin connector, so I separated the detachable portion of the 8 pin connector and plugged in the four. All is well with the PSU. Small problem… I decided to insert the PCIe card into the slot while I had the case open, still connecting a single monitor via onboard PCIe connector. — Blank screen. :( So I went back and removed the card, fired up the machine and Windows booted just fine with good display on the single monitor. I then booted to BIOS/CMOS and found that Graphic Adapter had been set to PCI (not PCIe) so I changed it to PCIe, saved and exited. I next turned off the machine, powered down and re-inserted to PCIe card, again connecting only a single monitor, now to the card. Booted - found new hardware - allowed the Windows utility to install drivers (instead of using the EVGA CD installation utility) and voila'… good display. Powered down again and added the second monitor. Booted just fine with both monitors. Configured the resolution to suit the two slightly different monitors. And well….. I'm up and running. Some of you will wonder or recommend that I should install the EVGA supplimentary utilities. (configuration and overclocking stuff) but since everything is working fine for my needs I am not inclined to do that at this time. I'll definitely read any related recommendations with an open mind. By the way, Corsair 550watt PSU was "heavy". It has a huge fan occupying nearly the entire bottom surface of the PSU box and draws air from the inside of the case, exhausting out the back. I can "hear" the PSU fan for about 3-5 seconds when first booting, but it drops to completely silent thereafter. Similarly, no change or noise associated with the HS Fan installed on the EVGA GeFprce 9500GT I think we have a low cost winner here, folks. I'm up and running with two monitors (both as VGA). Thanks again. Doug

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