Computer Freezes During Intense Activity, Possibly a RAM or Overheatin

When I play modern games or run stress tests my computer completely freezes (necessitating a hard reset). It works completely fine otherwise. I have an x2 5400+, 4 gig of crucial ballistix ram, m2a-vm hdmi asus mobo, windows XP, SATA Seagate 500 gig hard drive, micro-ATX case, 600 watt Ultra PSU. I don't have a video card yet. My cpu runs at like 66 when it freezes, and around mid-30's otherwise. When it freezes, I sometimes have to let it sit for a while before I can restart it. Also, it doesn't freeze nearly as often if the case is off or if I'm in a cooler environment. Could this be related? If it is overheating, how should I fix? I have one fan on the case in the back, and there really isn't anywhere to put a second. I basically have to take the whole case off before I can take any off, so leaving a side off isn't really an option. I have thermal paste on the cpu, but maybe it was low quality stuff or I used it improperly.

I have an x2 5400+, 4 gig of crucial ballistix ram, m2a-vm hdmi asus mobo, windows XP, SATA Seagate 500 gig hard drive, micro-ATX case,

Yeah, that's a lot of horsepower in a micro-ATX case because, as you correctly noted, your cooling options are very limited. I generally do not recommend small cases for that reason, unless silent operation, such as with a home theater PC (HTPC), is a goal, in which case, less powerful (read: less heat generating) components are carefully selected.

According to AMD, the maximum operating temperature for that CPU is 70°C. 66°C is probably well within the loose tolerance levels of the CPU itself, as well as the inexpensive, low-tech sensors, and the monitoring program. Personally, I get panicky when CPU temps hit 60°C, and so 66°C is something I would never expect to see.

If it is overheating, how should I fix?

If you are overclocking, don't!!! In fact, many folks with micro or SFF (small form-factor) cases, especially when noise is not tolerated, underclock their systems to keep temperatures, and therefore, cooling requirements down, minimizing or even eliminating noise, to the point where even hard drive noise becomes objectionable!

If your current case fan is plugged into a speed controlled power connector, either directly to the motherboard, or to a specially labeled connector from the power supply, connect it to a regular power supply +12V connection - this ensures it runs at full speed. If it is louder, it is running faster and moving more air.

Inspect your case carefully for additional fan options. Look around the current case fan mounting holes. If you see 4 more screw holes surrounding the current mounting screws, your case probably supports a bigger fan. Bigger is better because bigger moves more air, but usually at a lower RPM - meaning it is quieter. Measure your current case fan. The typical case fan measures approx 80mm by 80mm. Better cases today support 120mm or bigger fans. Though less common, 92mm fan support was provided with some cases.

Check out case fans at EndPCNoise or Frozen CPU. Note the specs on the better fans from Papst, Panaflo, Vantec, Zalman and others. You need maximum CFM (cubic feet/minute) and minimum dB or dBA (noise). Some of these fans have a very steep pitched blade to move huge chunks of air, and a thick housing to match. This is not normally a problem with medium or full size cases, but might be yours. Check your clearances.

Before you buy a new graphics card, you need to do some serious research. I would suggest you get a card that does not add to your heat problem. That means you need a graphics card that uses a two slot solution like this so that all heat generated from the graphics card is immediately exhausted. These fans can help with overall front to back air flow through the case too, always a good thing.

Getting such a graphics card may be difficult in your case because some micro-ATX cases are "low profile" and so you will have to find a "low profile" graphics card.

If you have any EIDE drives or a floppy drive, route any flat ribbon cables so they do not interfere with front to back air flow, or replace them with round cables of the correct length.

Ultimately, I think you should shop around for a new case that will meets your current and future cooling demands, and house all the components you may have over the next several years. Don't discard a case from consideration because it has a power supply. Many case retailers throw in a PSU (often a generic no-name or off-brand) just to make the case sale. Consider it spare and use it to test fans and drive motors.

Nicely written Digerati! I concur, though I couldn't have put it so well, nor with such experienced knowledge background. Best Regards

Thanks for all the assistance! I, unfortunately, cannot get a two-slot video card because of my mobo. However, I feel like the major issue is with my cpu overheating during games. Other than that I never overheat. If the video card manages to keep stress off the cpu during graphically intense programs, wouldn't it help? Also, would it help if I took 2 gigs of ram out? I have Windows XP, so the extra two doesn't really help anyway. Finally, I was considering applying some better thermal paste. I used the stuff that came with my heatsink, but maybe it wasn't very good…? I heard that arctic silver is good. Would this make a difference? Thanks again!

I feel like the major issue is with my cpu overheating during games. Other than that I never overheat. If the video card manages to keep stress off the cpu during graphically intense programs, wouldn't it help?

There's still a graphics processor with on-board graphics that does most of the work so adding a card does not take that much off the CPU.

Removing 2Gb might help with the heat issue, but I doubt it.

Using a good thermal paste can help lower temps by a few degrees - here's my canned text on TIM:

An often misunderstood and sometimes overlooked critical hardware component is thermal interface material or TIM. TIM is typically seen as a thermal pad on a CPU heatsink fan (HSF), or in paste form. It may also be called thermal grease, silicon grease, heat transfer compound, thermal paste, heat sink compound, goop, and probably more.

The 4 Most Common HSF Mounting Mistakes:

• Failure to use TIM
• Used too much TIM
• Reused old TIM
• Did not clean mating surfaces thoroughly before applying TIM

The purpose of TIM is to ensure all the microscopic pits and valleys in the CPU die and heatsink mating surfaces are void of heat trapping air, maximizing surface to surface contact. Any excess is too much and gets in the way, and can actually be counterproductive to the heat transfer process.

Materials Needed: One clean plastic shaft Q-Tip (cotton swab), acetone or 91% isopropyl alcohol (note - most rubbing alcohol is 70% and leaves a film, 91% alcohol can be found at your local drug store), clean scissors, can of compressed air, and the TIM. I recommend one of the new generations of non-metallic TIMs such as Tuniq TX-2 or AC MX-2, or the venerable silver based TIM, Arctic Silver 5.

WARNING: Keep yourself grounded with the case to ensure there is no static buildup and discharge that might destroy any electrostatic discharge (ESD) sensitive devices. It is important to realize that the "threshold for human awareness" for a static shock is higher than the tolerance of ESD sensitive devices. In other words, you can shock and destroy a CPU, RAM module, or other sensitive device without even knowing there was a static discharge! Use an anti-static wrist-strap or frequently touch bare metal on the case to maintain your body at the same potential as chassis (case) ground.

Preparation: Power off and unplug the computer from the wall. Cut off one cotton swap near the end. Bend the plastic shaft about 1/2 inch from the cut end to make a nice little hockey stick. This is the working end of your TIM application device. Clean the die and heat sink mating surfaces with a soft, lint free cloth dampened (not dripping wet) with acetone or 91% alcohol. Do not let any fluids run down the sides of the CPU die. Clean skin oils from the working end of your applicator with the alcohol dampened cloth. Blast the surfaces with a quick blast of compressed air to ensure the surfaces are dry and no lint or dust remains behind. Do NOT touch the CPU die or heatsink mating surfaces, or the applicator's working end from this point on.

Application: Apply one "drop" of paste on the corner of the die and spread it out across the die with the applicator, like spreading icing on a cake. Spread the paste as thin as possible while ensuring complete coverage. It is easier to add more than remove excess. Remember, too much is counterproductive.

Note: Depending on the type of TIM used, some, such as the silver based compounds, can take 2 - 5 days or longer (depending on the power/heat up-cool down cycles) for the TIM to cure and reach optimum effectiveness. A 2 – 4°C drop in average temperatures may be realized after curing.

Note: A new HSF may come with a thermal interface pad already applied. Those pads consist of mostly paraffin, which is supposed to melt and squirm out of the way when the CPU heats up for the first time. Thermal pads are certainly better than no TIM at all, but they are not as effective as silver or ceramic based compounds. Do not use a sharp or metal object to remove the pad. A fingernail will work fine, removing any residue with acetone or alcohol.

Note: Do not reuse a thermal pad or paste. Always remove the old, cured TIM, clean the mating surfaces thoroughly, and apply a fresh application of new TIM.

Note: Thermal adhesive is a specific type of TIM used to permanently or semi-permanently glue heatsinks to devices that have no other heatsink mounting mechanism. Thermal adhesive is NOT intended to be used between a CPU and the CPU heatsink.

See the TweakTown TIM Review.