This is the Power Supply Tester I have, very basic compared to newer ones available now, but gives the idea.
You pull the plug from the mains, remove the 20\24 pin lead and plug it into the tester, plug the power back in and it will automatically run, in this case the LED's are a simple traffic light system that reports good or bad for each of the various leads it has.
This one also has ports to use a proper electrical meter as well, nit sure if that required by the newer ones around that give a digital read out instead of this LED method, price ranges a fair bit, but I guess something around $20 or so is an average price for you, but when finished just unplug the mains again, replace the lead(s) and your back to where you started, very useful safe way to check a PSU as it require no special training, just use it as described here and it does the rest.
But are you able to take some more pic's of the inside, so to cover ALL the various connections so we can double check there is nothing out of place, but if you could add some lighting to the case so the pic's are clear it would be a great help, maybe you have an adjustable light or can use a table lamp maybe to add more light, that would be a great help.
It looks like your CD-Rom audio cable and it certainly DOES NOT loop around and plug back into the motherboard like that. smile.gif
Remove it completely. Those cables were required back with Win95 and 98 so that analog audio could be played from a music CD in the drive. It would pump the audio output from the CD-Rom directly into the sound card. Windows XP reads it digitally and does not need the cable, and Windows 2000, I suspect, is the same.
This certainly could be a problem if you have gone and plugged this cable into a fan power connector or a USB header or something.
I removed the cable, but nothing's really changed.
This is the Power Supply Tester I have, very basic compared to newer ones available now, but gives the idea.
You pull the plug from the mains, remove the 20\24 pin lead and plug it into the tester, plug the power back in and it will automatically run, in this case the LED's are a simple traffic light system that reports good or bad for each of the various leads it has.
This one also has ports to use a proper electrical meter as well, nit sure if that required by the newer ones around that give a digital read out instead of this LED method, price ranges a fair bit, but I guess something around $20 or so is an average price for you, but when finished just unplug the mains again, replace the lead(s) and your back to where you started, very useful safe way to check a PSU as it require no special training, just use it as described here and it does the rest.
It'll take me a while before I can get a tester, but I'll get started on that ASAP.
But are you able to take some more pic's of the inside, so to cover ALL the various connections so we can double check there is nothing out of place, but if you could add some lighting to the case so the pic's are clear it would be a great help, maybe you have an adjustable light or can use a table lamp maybe to add more light, that would be a great help.
As soon as I find a good light, I'll be sure to take as many accurate pictures as I can
That helps, but I was mainly after shots of the wires connected, just to try and make sure they are on correctly.
The tester is a very handy tool, but for a one off use it may seem like it's not worth the money, but it is a great tool to check your power safely which can't be checked any other way except by someone who understands meters like an electrician, which obviously would cost a lot more.
There is not much to see from that, but there is another section totally missing as well, the 1st pic looks like the ide port for the hard drive, there are probably 2 similar ones as well, the other large one is for the optical drive(s), and the smaller one for the floppy, and the smaller power lead you showed in the 2nd pic I think it was is the power for the floppy drive.
Now the last pic might be the audio, it's a bit hard to be sure, but there is at least 1 set of header pins that should be down by the bottom right corner of the board, or thereabout traditionally anyway, these are where you plug in the case wires for the power switch, reset and hard drive LED etc, also speaker if it's old enough to come with one, so if those wires are not connected correctly that will cause problems, there will also be some point on there to plug in any USB ports, are you sure you got these all done correctly ? because the individual wires are positive and negative, so they have to be the right way around as well, if you let us know about this and if your not sure then I will try and guide you to the right points, but I will need to know what the case wires are called\marked up as to be able to tell you where they go, thats if you think you may need this.
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