Hardware
Motherboard Specifications
6 min read
Pein
Topic Starter
I'm planning on building a computer of my own around December - January. Currently I'm trying to save up enough money for it. I'd thought I'd do some early shopping so that when I do have the money, I'll be ready. My question is: What specifications should I be looking at when I buy a motherboard? I've been looking at Newegg and they have both AMD and Intel motherboards, which is better?
Thanks in advance.
Digerati
Hi Pein - we cannot really answer that for you - we do not have two essential pieces of information - the primary purpose of this new computer, and your budget.
AMD and Intel "motherboards" are of equal quality so there is no "better" when talking that broadly - you would have to get to specific boards to fairly compare.
That said, about two years ago, Intel released the Core 2 Duo with which Intel regained the lead in producing CPUs that outperform, consume less power, and generate less heat than AMDs. So in those areas, the Intels are considered the better option. But understand, AMD CPUs are great CPUs and there are many great motherboards for AMD processors that make great computers.
AMDs used to be the great "bargain" CPU maker and they have slipped back, somewhat, into that category - although the price gap between Intels and AMDs of similar performance characteristics is not as great as it used to be, you can usually find a decent AMD system for a little less money than Intels.
For me, I have not built an AMD computer since the Duo came out.
A couple words of advice. A good case does two things, it houses the computer components and it keeps them cool. A good case will carry you through several computer upgrades. I like the Antec Sonatas - they support large 120mm fans (bigger fans mean quieter operation while moving more air), they are sturdy, true (90° angles), have removable and washable air filter. I avoid cases with fancy facade and flashing lights, neither of which do anything for performance or cooling. And besides, I think a case should sit discreetly out of they and NOT draw attention to itself. I tend to watch my monitors, and not flashy lights on a case.
The next critical, and often overlooked component is the power supply. You would not put watered down, generic fuel in your new Porsche - okay, you might, but you would not expect it to run at peak performance. A car engine can miss a beat and keep running, not so with digital electronics.
Use the eXtreme PSU Calculator Lite to determine your power supply unit (PSU) requirements. Plug in all the hardware you think you might have in 2 or 3 years (extra drives, bigger or 2nd video card, more RAM, etc.). Be sure to read and heed the notes at the bottom. I recommend you set Capacitor Aging to 30%, and if you participate in distributive computing projects (e.g. BOINC or Folding@Home), I recommend setting TDP to 100%. Research your video card and pay particular attention to the power supply requirements for your card listed on your video card maker's website. Then look for power supply brands listed under the "Good" column of PC Mechanic's PSU Reference List. Ensure the supplied amperage on the +12V rails of your chosen PSU meets the requirements of your video card. Don't try to save a few dollars by getting a cheap supply. Digital electronics, including CPUs, RAM, and today's advanced graphics cards, need clean, stable power. A good, well chosen supply will provide years of service and upgrade wiggle room. I strongly recommend you pick a supply with an efficiency rating equal to, or greater than 80%. Look for the 80 Plus - EnergyStar Compliant label.
And don't forget to budget for a good UPS with AVR (automatic voltage regulation). Do not waste your money on a surge and spike protector.
For beginners (and experienced too) I recommend you check out MWave's "Motherboard Bundles" Wizard. This is a great research tool as it allows you to pick a motherboard, then the Wizard will offer a big list of CPUs and RAM that MWave has already determined are compatible with that motherboard. Or, you can start with a CPU and the wizard will list a bunch of motherboards and RAM options that will support that CPU. This is a great research tool you can use even if you buy elsewhere (although their prices are fairly competitive once you factor in shipping - if you live in the US). However, for only $9 more, MWave will mount the CPU and RAM on the motherboard AND test them. So not only do you know from the Wizard that your components work together, you know your specific parts will not be DOA - a nice warm fuzzy for only $9.
AMD and Intel "motherboards" are of equal quality so there is no "better" when talking that broadly - you would have to get to specific boards to fairly compare.
That said, about two years ago, Intel released the Core 2 Duo with which Intel regained the lead in producing CPUs that outperform, consume less power, and generate less heat than AMDs. So in those areas, the Intels are considered the better option. But understand, AMD CPUs are great CPUs and there are many great motherboards for AMD processors that make great computers.
AMDs used to be the great "bargain" CPU maker and they have slipped back, somewhat, into that category - although the price gap between Intels and AMDs of similar performance characteristics is not as great as it used to be, you can usually find a decent AMD system for a little less money than Intels.
For me, I have not built an AMD computer since the Duo came out.
A couple words of advice. A good case does two things, it houses the computer components and it keeps them cool. A good case will carry you through several computer upgrades. I like the Antec Sonatas - they support large 120mm fans (bigger fans mean quieter operation while moving more air), they are sturdy, true (90° angles), have removable and washable air filter. I avoid cases with fancy facade and flashing lights, neither of which do anything for performance or cooling. And besides, I think a case should sit discreetly out of they and NOT draw attention to itself. I tend to watch my monitors, and not flashy lights on a case.
The next critical, and often overlooked component is the power supply. You would not put watered down, generic fuel in your new Porsche - okay, you might, but you would not expect it to run at peak performance. A car engine can miss a beat and keep running, not so with digital electronics.
Use the eXtreme PSU Calculator Lite to determine your power supply unit (PSU) requirements. Plug in all the hardware you think you might have in 2 or 3 years (extra drives, bigger or 2nd video card, more RAM, etc.). Be sure to read and heed the notes at the bottom. I recommend you set Capacitor Aging to 30%, and if you participate in distributive computing projects (e.g. BOINC or Folding@Home), I recommend setting TDP to 100%. Research your video card and pay particular attention to the power supply requirements for your card listed on your video card maker's website. Then look for power supply brands listed under the "Good" column of PC Mechanic's PSU Reference List. Ensure the supplied amperage on the +12V rails of your chosen PSU meets the requirements of your video card. Don't try to save a few dollars by getting a cheap supply. Digital electronics, including CPUs, RAM, and today's advanced graphics cards, need clean, stable power. A good, well chosen supply will provide years of service and upgrade wiggle room. I strongly recommend you pick a supply with an efficiency rating equal to, or greater than 80%. Look for the 80 Plus - EnergyStar Compliant label.
And don't forget to budget for a good UPS with AVR (automatic voltage regulation). Do not waste your money on a surge and spike protector.
For beginners (and experienced too) I recommend you check out MWave's "Motherboard Bundles" Wizard. This is a great research tool as it allows you to pick a motherboard, then the Wizard will offer a big list of CPUs and RAM that MWave has already determined are compatible with that motherboard. Or, you can start with a CPU and the wizard will list a bunch of motherboards and RAM options that will support that CPU. This is a great research tool you can use even if you buy elsewhere (although their prices are fairly competitive once you factor in shipping - if you live in the US). However, for only $9 more, MWave will mount the CPU and RAM on the motherboard AND test them. So not only do you know from the Wizard that your components work together, you know your specific parts will not be DOA - a nice warm fuzzy for only $9.
Pein
Well the main use of this new computer would be for gaming and I'm hoping to not spend more than $2000 overall. Before I get into the power supply, I need advice on what CPU and video card to get. On the video card, what does core clock and memory clock specification refer to? Is better to have a video card with higher or lower core / memory clock?
Digerati
First, I apologize for not replying sooner - I did not get a notification of your reply -Well the main use of this new computer would be for gaming and I'm hoping to not spend more than $2000 overall. Before I get into the power supply, I need advice on what CPU and video card to get. On the video card, what does core clock and memory clock specification refer to? Is better to have a video card with higher or lower core / memory clock?
Generally speaking, Intel is the way to go. AMD makes great processors and form the foundation for a great computer, but they just do not compete with Intel anymore. As a whole, the current Intel line outperforms, consumes less power, and generates less heat than the AMD line.
Also generally speaking, like any processor, the faster the clock, the more work it can do in the same amount of time as the same processor running at a slower clock.
The PSU MUST be a top priority, but also must wait until you decide on the other hardware. Just don't run out of budget before getting your PSU - buying a budget PSU would be a mistake. Note I would MUCH rather have a 600W Antec PSU than a 650W no-name generic.Before I get into the power supply…
As for graphics, check out Tom's Hardware, Gaming Graphics Charts Q3/2008.
xixo_12
Hello Pein and Digerati,
as i' m not familiar with currency at your place compare to mine (malaysia) i found a little bit confusion to advice.
i think i would prefer to go to AMD based system, i assume u are not into overclocking sector
first, u can buy a newest motherboard chipset that allow u to CF our own ATI graphic card with onboard. save money there
second, u always can get the higher badwidth at stock clock.. refer HERE
third, althought it's not an budget system as their TDP watt to high, but u can save money to spend on more powerful graphic card, and u wil get the satisfaction on the gaming experience
thanks.
as i' m not familiar with currency at your place compare to mine (malaysia) i found a little bit confusion to advice.
i think i would prefer to go to AMD based system, i assume u are not into overclocking sector
first, u can buy a newest motherboard chipset that allow u to CF our own ATI graphic card with onboard. save money there
second, u always can get the higher badwidth at stock clock.. refer HERE
third, althought it's not an budget system as their TDP watt to high, but u can save money to spend on more powerful graphic card, and u wil get the satisfaction on the gaming experience
thanks.
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