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IMMEDIATE HELP! SCREEN TURNED RED!


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#16 Digerati

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Posted 16 March 2008 - 10:24 AM

I never really imagined that those types of motherboards were on the market for personal use.

I guess the depends on what you mean by "personal" use. Many folks have been running servers in their homes for years. Newegg has more than 50 dual processor boards, and 4 or 5 quads. And some hard core gamers may use them for LAN parties, or just braggin' rights. Looks like the cheapest at Newegg is the Tyan S2696A2NRF (SATA) Dual 771 for $380USD. Or if budget is not in your vocabulary, you can go for the Tyan - S4881G2NR Quad 940 for a mere $1787.99USD - must be in high demand, I see they are currently out of stock. ;) Of course then you have to add CPUs - lets see, the Opteron 890 Egypt 2.8G Dual-Core will be nice - and it is on sale for only $1,169! Oh, yeah, times 4 - for $4,676! Then there's RAM - 16 slots!
***
If your current supply is still good (just underpowered) then probably no additional damage was done. Usually, a stressed power supply will simply cause unexplained reboots, crashes, or graphics problems. It is rare for a power supply to cause additional damage, but it does happen. In fact, we must remember, anything that plugs into the wall can kill!

Also, most of the PSU's that I bring up don't have two 6-pin PCIe connectors,

If not, pick a different PSU. Why buy a new PSU that does not meet your current or foreseeable needs? The two PSUs you selected do.
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#17 Immortal

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Posted 16 March 2008 - 11:25 AM

I guess the depends on what you mean by "personal" use. Many folks have been running servers in their homes for years. Newegg has more than 50 dual processor boards, and 4 or 5 quads. And some hard core gamers may use them for LAN parties, or just braggin' rights. Looks like the cheapest at Newegg is the Tyan S2696A2NRF (SATA) Dual 771 for $380USD. Or if budget is not in your vocabulary, you can go for the Tyan - S4881G2NR Quad 940 for a mere $1787.99USD - must be in high demand, I see they are currently out of stock. ;) Of course then you have to add CPUs - lets see, the Opteron 890 Egypt 2.8G Dual-Core will be nice - and it is on sale for only $1,169! Oh, yeah, times 4 - for $4,676! Then there's RAM - 16 slots!


I guess I didn't take into account that kind of "personal" use, lol. A friend of mine has been talking about making a server for "personal" use recently. Of course, the server is for the gaming group we (my friend and I) are in.

***
If your current supply is still good (just underpowered) then probably no additional damage was done. Usually, a stressed power supply will simply cause unexplained reboots, crashes, or graphics problems. It is rare for a power supply to cause additional damage, but it does happen. In fact, we must remember, anything that plugs into the wall can kill!


That's a relief -- not the killing part.

If not, pick a different PSU. Why buy a new PSU that does not meet your current or foreseeable needs? The two PSUs you selected do.


Actually, I think I found something suitable for my needs and decided to go ahead and purchased it:

CMPSU-650TX: http://www.corsair.c...roducts/tx.aspx for 99.99$ on Newegg.com after MIR!

Thanks for the help, again, Digerati. Your help is most appreciated. I'll be back within 4 days or so to address how my new PSU fairs with the current problems.

Edited by Immortal, 16 March 2008 - 11:47 AM.


#18 Digerati

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Posted 16 March 2008 - 03:31 PM

Great RAM makers and their PSUs have been getting good reviews and I have a TX750 sitting here - quietly, very quietly! :)
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#19 Immortal

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Posted 19 March 2008 - 02:54 PM

I just got my Ultimate LCD PSU Tester from FrozenCPU today. I checked the SATA Connector, 4P/6P/8P, 24-Pin, and ATX power output connectors. They all showed to be in normal condition (+12V1 reads 12.2 for 24P and +12V2 reads 12.1 for each 4P/6P/8P; each ATX power connector lit up +12V and +5V lights; each SATA connector lit up +12V, +3.3V, and +5V lights; Floppy connector lit up +12V and +5V lights). When I opened my tower to extract the PSU connectors for the testing, I noticed that all my fans (4) were connected in one long chain to the same ATX power output connector, which was on the same wire (? -- not sure what else to call it except wire) that my CD drive (not the same connector as my CD drive) was on. Could this be a reason why I have had problems, regardless that I am using a PSU that is potentially underpowered for my build? Also, the P.G. was at mid-300's (340-380) when I tested my PSU. I'm not sure what that means. When I connected my PSU back into the computer, I made sure that I split up the connections to the fans. I had two wires of ATX power output connectors to work with, each wire containing 3 ATX power output connectors. Sadly, my current PSU only has one 6-pin connector. For my 2nd 6-pin connector (which is required for my GPU), I am using a converter that converts 2 ATX power output connectors into one 6-Pin connector. So, that wire of ATX power output connectors is being used for my GPU; thus, I didn't want to stick a fan on the extra ATX power output connector on that wire. The other wire of ATX power output connectors (which also has a Floppy Drive connector) is being used to supply power to my CD drive and has two extra ATX power output connectors. On those two extra ATX power output connectors, I connected two fans each. I also turned all the fans down from high to low. I haven't felt any dramatic temperature changes, but I won't know for sure until I've had my computer running for longer on a more stressful load. I also took some Air Duster and got the dust out :thumbup: ! When I turned my computer back on, the desktop loaded up almost as fast as it had when I first got it. Some of the desktop icons didn't load up at the same time as the others. I restarted my computer and the loading time was just as fast. So, I've shaved off at least 3-4 seconds worth of loading time for my desktop. I'll have to set my fans back to high to see if it changes anything. Although, my CD drive is still having some problems. I looked it up on Newegg.com this past Monday and checked the reviews for LG drives. Mostly all of them were terrible. The reviews described problems that I have been having with my own LG CD drive. I ordered a Samsung drive that same day. It should be coming in today. My Corsair PSU should also be coming in today. So, as soon as I can check the Corsair with the PSU tester and install everything, I'll give ya'll another post. BTW: I have NOT had another red screen occur, yet. Weird :huh: .

#20 Digerati

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Posted 19 March 2008 - 05:14 PM

I have NOT had another red screen occur, yet.

That's good - because every time you are forced to hit the power switch, instead of properly shutting down Windows, you risk corrupting your hard drive - not good.
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#21 Immortal

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Posted 19 March 2008 - 05:20 PM

Nothing smells worse than disappointment :smack: . I just tested my PSU and installed both the new PSU and new CD drive. I decided, what the heck, I'll go ahead and jack up the fans to high. I got enough power. When my desktop loaded this time with the new PSU and CD drive, I was disappointed because it loaded as slow as before. Also, the CD drive acts up again when I stick a CD in it (no autoplay and freezes when I try to open in My Computer). My next guess is CPU or HDD? I don't want to end up buying myself a whole new rig. Although, I did need a new PSU. Not sure now if I needed a new CD drive (even though this one has LightScribe and is quieter). What do you think, Digerati? I was browsing through What the Tech forums and found something about WD Diag and Memory tests (for RAM sticks). I might try those. Any suggestions for checking CPU?

Edited by Immortal, 19 March 2008 - 05:20 PM.


#22 DaChew

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Posted 19 March 2008 - 06:10 PM

what range of temperatures have your northbridge and cpu been running?

Edited by DaChew, 19 March 2008 - 06:10 PM.


#23 Immortal

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Posted 19 March 2008 - 06:51 PM

I have no clue. I don't have widgets for that type of thing.

#24 DaChew

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Posted 19 March 2008 - 07:08 PM

http://www.majorgeek...wnload5842.html

this is the latest and greatest but I would have rather seen the results during the red screen problems and before you cleaned the dust out

that cpu gets hotter than a 2$ dollar pistol

and they haven't quite got it right yet

everest home free does a better job with my older motherboard

rebooting into bios and reading the values from there are probably the best way, you have to be quick as things will cool off

Edited by DaChew, 19 March 2008 - 07:20 PM.


#25 Digerati

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Posted 19 March 2008 - 07:18 PM

CPUs either work, or don't - they don't slow down, unless overheated.

You can test your RAM using one of the following programs. Both require you to create and boot to a bootable floppy disk or CD to run the diagnostics. Using the floppy method is generally easier and yet another reason I still include floppy drives in all my new PC builds. However, the CD method is just as effective at detecting RAM problems. Allow the diagnostics to run for several passes or even overnight. You should have no reported errors.

Windows Memory Diagnostic - see the easy to follow instructions under Quick Start Information.
or
MemTest86+ (for more advanced users) - an excellent how-to guide is available here.

Your motherboard utilities disk should have a monitoring program (or check for a more recent version on your motherboard or PC maker's website). If none, I recommend CoreTemp for newer Intel and AMD64 CPUs. Speedfan is a great and popular alternative, or you can try Motherboard Monitor. Unfortunately, I have found that these programs often have problems properly identifying and labeling the sensor they are reading. The temperatures shown are as accurate as the inexpensive, low-tech sensors will allow, but it may say System Fan instead of CPU Fan. Fortunately, the programs do allow you to edit the labels, so I use Everest to verify the temperatures (as it is able to put sensor to label correctly), then edit the label in the monitoring program. In Everest, look under Computer > Sensor, then wait a couple seconds for the readings to appear. Unfortunately, Everest does not minimize to the system tray to show real-time temperatures, otherwise, you could use Everest instead of the others.
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#26 Immortal

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Posted 19 March 2008 - 08:41 PM

I installed the Everest Home Edition. I got a warning window right off the bat stating that my current setup wasn't fully supported by Everest. So, I made a report and sent it to Lavalys. I am in the sensors tab, looking at the temperatures. All I have running is Steam and Firefox (two applications that don't take much to run). This is what the sensors read: Motherboard: 22 C (72 F) CPU: 1 C (34 F) GPU: 54 C (129 F) < -- (This reading is a weird reading because all I can feel from my exhaust fans is cool air) HDD: 25 C (77 F) Also, I am checking out the Voltage Values. Same as above, all I have running is Steam and Firefox. This is what the voltage values read : CPU Core: 2.27V +2.5V: 2.64V +3.3V: 3.25V +5V: 4.76V +12V: 0.50V ~ 2.00V (it jumps) +5VSB: 4.84V I did a WD Diag Quick and Extended Test. My HDD passed both. I'll run MemTest86+ overnight and see how it fairs. My friend, who is more computer savvy than I, suggested that the pebkac -- I guess he thinks I am the problem :P

#27 Digerati

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Posted 19 March 2008 - 08:48 PM

Well, your temperatures are not right. It is impossible for your CPU to be running at near freezing. Unless you use alternative cooling solutions, there is no way your electronics is cooler than your room temperatures.
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#28 DaChew

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Posted 19 March 2008 - 09:12 PM

everest home free is from 3 years ago, it's way too old to report for that chipset/sensor coretemp might, but then again it is for core duo's and amd64's booting into bios will give you a reference point I suspect you have a case over heating problem? That red screen I have seen from the northbridge overheating. Forget speedfan, it's way out of date a beta trial of everest ultimate will return partial but accurate readings this is an example of what you should see on a healthy computer, my power supply is getting a little old Sensor Properties: Sensor Type Winbond W83627THF (ISA 290h) GPU Sensor Type National LM63 (ATI-I2C 4Ch) Motherboard Name Asus A8V Series Temperatures: Motherboard 29 °C (84 °F) CPU 31 °C (88 °F) GPU 48 °C (118 °F) GPU Ambient 38 °C (100 °F) DW CDW63G0-D00NF0A 40 °C (104 °F) Seagate ST3250823AS 41 °C (106 °F) Cooling Fans: CPU 2519 RPM Voltage Values: CPU Core 1.42 V +3.3 V 3.25 V +5 V 5.11 V +12 V 12.16 V the ambient temperature is cool(about 65F)

Edited by DaChew, 19 March 2008 - 09:13 PM.


#29 Immortal

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Posted 19 March 2008 - 09:23 PM

The only thing that changed with the Trial version of Everest Ultimate was that I can't see my +12V readout (blocked by [TRIAL VERSION] text) and my CPU temperature readout is about 23 C (78 F). I find it weird that the Free edition showed my +12V as 0.50~2.00V instead of around 12V. You think this is the same as the bug with the CPU temperature in the Free edition or is it reliable?

Edited by Immortal, 19 March 2008 - 09:25 PM.


#30 DaChew

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Posted 19 March 2008 - 09:39 PM

what bios version are you running? and which revision of that mobo?

Edited by DaChew, 19 March 2008 - 09:42 PM.

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