It was suggested to me if I may, that I get 750 Watt PSU, What do you think?
over kill for the system but there really is no harm in getting a psu with more watts, 750 and up are what i'd use for systems with more than a single gpu usually.
think the power usage of the parts i listed come to about 150 watts max so a 500/550 watt psu still has plenty of spare capacity for you to add a gpu later if required.
I also wanted; blue tooth (for use with my phone), hyper-threading, WiFi, internet, 64 byte and importantly legacy in the UEFI in the board as it makes booting so much easier for a relative novice. Is there a way to know ahead of buying whether the board it has legacy or not?
all motherboards have the capability to boot in legacy mode and internet abilities, i'll change the motherboard choice so it has built in wifi/blutooth.
i5's do not have hyperthreading you need an i7 for that and to be honest it's not something i think you need but if you want it then have it and i'll choose a different cpu for you too.
Would a cooler be something the build could benefit from?
cooler is always better but in real terms it is not something i'd say would offer any benefit to most people but it's something i always add to my builds anyway.
How does the warranty work ? I go to the manufacturer per his warranty?
if memory serves over here for the first year you can return it to where you bought it and they must replace it after that first year you contact the manufacturer directly and get an rma then they will either fix or replace the item.
to be honest peter i think i've only had to use a warranty 1ce or 2ce in my life, usually if the item is faulty it will be faulty from the time you get it and show up in the build process then you just use the sellers 30 day guarantee/returns policy to get them to change it. last items i remember being faulty were both hard drives, can't remember having problems with things like cpu, motherboard, memory etc. and the warranty i did use last was for a psu if i remember correctly which died after about 2 years.
Do you think a prebuilt has any merit for a novice?
not really but then again you don't have the risk of building it yourself and making any mistakes that may kill the hardware plus you have a one stop location to go to for any problems with it. personally i have only bought 1 or 2 prebuilt systems and never had a problem with them so if that is the route you want to take, go for it lots of people do.
may I ask how did you compile this as I have been trying for days. I was at PCPartsPicker but could not find my saved list when I clicked on "my saved parts". Did you do it based upon your past experience or is it something I could have done?
first thing you do is decide on what size your going to be building. atx, (normal size).
micro atx (slightly smaller) more or less the same as atx just slightly smaller motherboard.
mini itx (small) and needs special parts usually like smaller psu's etc and space is very limited so needs to be well thought out in advance otherwise all parts won't fit.
next decide on cpu and socket type you want your build to be, eg. newest skylake intel cpu's are socket 1151, means the cpu has 1151 connections/pins on it so needs a motherboard that has the same so then you look at motherboards that only use socket 1151, from there you look at the motherboard to see what ram it supports and if the specs and capabilities have what you want. eg. usb 3, sata 3, wifi etc. etc.
nothing really complicated but the choices out there can be overwhelming, and why lots of people buy from a place that will build it for them and only offers a select few choices to custom build it for them, like in some of those sites i linked to earlier, where you start off with a base system and then choose cpu etc from the list they give you.
I notice the board has HDMI but my monitor does not have it, I would use DVI which I assume it has.
the board has both dvi and hdmi connections.
Also, I ope the case is open on the side and loaded on the side which it appears it is.
not 100% sure what you mean by this or what difference it makes but most pc's are opened and motherboard fitted from the left side of the case.
with my own full tower case you can pull the back and motherboard tray out (holds motherboard) to make fitting things easier not that i do that because it's more hassle than it's worth in my opinion so i build from the side anyway. lol
Maybe I can show you the build via Skype so you can tell me where some tricky cable goes?
i have no objections to that if you decide to build your own, but in all honesty you really won't have any problems when you read the motherboard manual, everything is explained in easy to follow steps with good diagrams usually.
main thing is make sure the leds (case lights) are connected + to + and - to - to the motherboard pins for them otherwise you'll burn them out, power and reset make no difference and everything else can only be connected 1 way because of socket/plug design so shouldn't be a problem.
new cpu choice with hyperthreading :- http://www.newegg.co...N82E16819117560
new motherboard choice with blutooth and wifi. :- http://www.newegg.co...2-568-_-Product
adds about $300 to total cost.
Edited by terry1966, 21 February 2016 - 12:38 AM.