With Dell, you hit F12 on the startup screen instead of F2. It takes you to a list of options, you select #8, utility partition. Once there you are given to option to test system components.
See if there is something you can check on here in your bios settings.
CDROM is probably Secondary Drive 0 -CD-ROM <– Hit "Enter" – Drive Type should be listed as "AUTO", if not, Toggle to select "Auto"
Then use arrow keys to scroll to Boot Sequence
Use Arrow Keys to select IDE CD-ROM Device
Use +/- key to move IDE CD-ROM to the #1 position
Caution: In "some" Dell BIOS presentations there is an "option" to use "spacebar" to enable/disable the selected drive.
It is really easy to "accidentally" hit the spacebar and not think it has done anything.
But if that "option" is available, then hitting spacebar "removes" the checkmark/tick from in front of the selected Drive
The Drive then is Disabled.
Use spacebar to replace the checkmark/tick to Enable the Drive
TMPLGE,
Do you have access to another CD drive? A buddy you can borrow one from?
If so, try installing it in your computer and see if you can gain access to the CD.
I had a tech buddy walk me through it, i did everything right. Dell walked me through it, everything was right. The CD wouldnt boot. I checked the CD on 2 different systems, its operating. I tried another CD drive today and I still had the same problem. At this point Im thinking its the Hard drive. Im gona do some more research and see what happens. I may have to buy a new one.
Here is some information from Digerati who is a Tech Expert here. It might give you some things to think about.
When I see all kinds of strange problems that may or may not be hardware related but nothing adds up, and I know the system is clean of malware, RAM is good, chkdsk /r passes, heat is controlled, no leaky capacitors - I disconnect all hardware not needed (opticals, extra drives, and especially USB devices - perhaps all but one stick of RAM) and throw in a known good power supply and see what happens. Many times that fixes it, even though the voltages and wattage/current specifications of the current PSU are within required specifications.
I have seen, especially with older and perhaps near capacity (stressed) PSUs, "this" value for this device (or circuit) may be within specified tolerances, but just barely and near the extremes in one direction. While "that" value for that device or circuit may be near tolerance extremes in the opposite direction - any minor fluctuation spreads the gap farther apart, and that "circuit" has a disruption. Of course the concept of combined variances of individual parts causing out of tolerance conditions for the whole became known shortly after man started attaching Part A to Part B.
If my known good PSU does not resolve the problem with no extra hardware attached, and nothing is pointing to the OS, malware or drivers, then the motherboard gets my suspicions. We generally don't fix motherboards anymore, but before they were cheap, we would "scope out" the regulator circuits.
TMPLGE,
On second thought, It appears to me that it probably makes sense to close this thread. When you get your machine booting, you can post in the Hardware forum for additional help as you shouldn't be having any malware problems.
Do you agree?
Does that mean it will get deleted? I hope not, I would like to refer back to it for review. On a positive note, I did clean out a super old computer today, removing over 260 trojans, spyware, adware and virus's. Its near new =) Too bad its so old it doesnt recognize what a USB is lol. Ill keep you updated on what happenes with my dell Tomk.
Lev