wireless AC

I cannot find a mother board at he micro center site that supports wireless AC.

I have made a build but that is the missing part.

This s my new build at micro center. If I can make sure of compatibility and solve the networking with AC I can print out the list I have.

 

ITEMQTYTOTAL

Microsoft Windows 10 Pro 64-bit - 1pk DSP OEM DVD1$139.99

SKU: 805465

Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz LGA 1151 Boxed Processor1$179.99

SKU: 804831

Corsair Vengeance Series 16GB 2 x 8GB DDR4-3000 PC…1$89.99

SKU: 942441

EVGA GQ 750 Watt 80+ Gold Semi Modular ATX Power S…1$109.99

SKU: 926998

Corsair Carbide Series SPEC-01 Mid Tower Gaming Co…1$47.99

SKU: 509786

ASUS Z170-AR LGA 1151 ATX Intel Motherboard1$119.99

SKU: 818716

ASUS 24x Internal DVDRW SATA Writer1$29.99

SKU: 407361

Subtotal $717.94

In-store Pickup $0.00

Tax $41.28

Grand Total  $760.22

 

? able to add  networking AC card or an adapter, or get mother board that has it.

 

Thanks a lot

Peter

Connecting via Ethernet is better and more secure. Are you not able to do that?

 

If absolutely must have wireless, I recommend a PCIe card that has external antennas similar to this. Note if you WAP (wireless access point - often integrated into a wireless router) is not 802.11ac, getting an 11ac adapter will not offer any advantage. You could do just fine with an 11n. But if you have or plan on getting an 11ac WAP in the future, I would get an 11ac adapter now. But again, that is only if connecting by Ethernet is not possible.

I am sort of a novice with this build.
I connect the Ethernet to my desktop and the phone and laptop connect wirelessly via my rouuter.To get the newest technology, should I have AC in the desktop?
Where does AC come into play here?
My router was old so I am using the router from my ISP.

802.11ac is the latest widely used wireless protocol. Since your motherboard has an Ethernet port, you don't need to use WiFi unless your computer is located too far away from your wireless access point to connect a Ethernet cable from the computer to one of the router's Ethernet switch ports.

I understand now; my desktop is close enough to use ethernet which I do. I guess it is the router which has the AC technology.

 

Could someone tell me how to determine if my parts are compatible so I don't have a too small case or don't have enough fans, and things like that.

I need to understand how to see if all will fit together and function before the fact. PP PC is great for compatibility but my build is all Micro Center as I live near there. I need some site to plug my parts in to see if they are going to work together  and fit.

Would I need paste for this build to affix the heat sink to the CPU or, because it is Intel, is it not necessary?

 

This is my final build which I send to the store to pick up.

 

Thank you

I guess it is the router which has the AC technology.

This is another case of marketing weenies causing confusion.
 
Your router does not have wireless (802.11ac) technology because technically speaking, there is no such thing as a "wireless router".  That is simply a "marketing" term for a "3-way" "integrated" device consisting of a router, a Ethernet switch (typically 4-port), and a WAP (wireless access point). These are three discrete network devices that just happen to share the same box, same PCB (printed circuit board) and same power supply.

A router has just one "wired" input and one "wired" output and is used to connect (or isolate) two networks. In a home network a router connects "your network" (your "LAN" - local area network - the router and everything on your side of the router) to the ISP's network (and the Internet) through the gateway device/modem.

A Ethernet switch (also called a switching hub) is used to connect multiple networked devices on your network to the one input on your side of the router.

A WAP is used to provide wireless (Wifi) access to your network. The WAP actually connects internally to a 5th Ethernet port of the switch.

In recent years manufacturers have also been integrating a modem with "wireless routers" for a 4-way integrated device. Four discrete devices in one box. These are "marketed" under different terms like "residential gateway" devices, "wireless modems" or "wireless modem/routers".

In some cases, they even have 5-way devices that integrate Internet phone too. Five discrete devices, in one box.

If you have just one network device between all your connected computers (wireless and Ethernet), then you have what is being called a "wireless modem/router" or a "residential gateway" device.

If you have a separate modem, then you most likely also have a "wireless router". This is the setup I have. My Ethernet connected computers connect to my network through my router via it's Ethernet switch, and my wireless devices (notebook, smart TV, tablet, smart phone) connect to my network via the WAP integrated with my router. Then my router connects to my modem, and the cable from my ISP connects to the other modem connection to connect my whole network to the Internet.

Just remember it is okay to say your wireless devices connect to your router as long as you understand they really are connecting to the WAP that is integrated with the router in the same box as the router (and 4-port switch). The router and WAP being discrete devices is one reason you need a "passphrase" to connect your wireless devices but you don't for your Ethernet connected devices.

Clear as mud, huh?

As far as compatibility, I don't see any problems but I did not dig into specifics. The general rule is you should only buy CPUs listed on the CPU QVL (qualified vendors list). Each motherboard has (or should have) this list of CPUs the motherboard maker tested and verified are compatible with that specific board. Same with the RAM. But because there are too many RAM makers and RAM models for motherboard makers to test them all, you don't have to buy listed RAM. But you do need to buy RAM with the same specs as that listed on the Memory QVL to ensure compatibility. Your motherboard's QVLs can be found here.

But for an easier way use PCPartPicker. This is a free site that lets you enter the parts you want and tells you if compatible and even looks for the best prices. It will also tell you how big of a PSU you will need and I can tell you now 750W is WAY MORE than you need. I happen to really like EVGA Gold PSUs (and have one in this computer) and you can easily get by (with plenty of headroom to spare) with a 550W.

Note I also don't see any drives. While SSDs cost more, I highly recommend them. I recommend at least a 250-256GB SSD for your boot disk. That size is big enough for Windows and all your installed programs, and probably all of your personal documents too.

If you need mass storages for large videos, 1000s of songs, or backing up your SSD, you can always install a big HD as your secondary drive.

You will need a DVD drive (at least temporarily) to install Windows.

I know my terms will not be exact but generally speaking;

I have  gateway from Comcast. I used to have a modem and my own router, but, to have the phone as part of the triple play, I need the gateway.

Within their gateway is a router and also VOIP which I have set securely with a password to enter and a key within.That router is how my phones and laptop get internet.

My desktop is connected to the ethernet port of the gateway. 

If I ever get a router, and bridge my gateway's one, I  will get one with AC technology.

———

I have a new WD hard drive and for my level it is all I need. I have one external WD drive with one T and one that has two T so storage is fine.   I have since added an optical drive= ASUS 24x Internal DVDRW SATA Writer1$29.99

SKU: 407361

————–

**This is the tricky part for me and what I am looking to find out. I have been to PC Parts Picker and built a lot of builds but as I said  Micro Center is just down the street so I built mine at their site. That is the build I showed in post #2. However, compatibility is not offered at Micro center.

 

I cannot figure out how to use PC PP to check the post # 2's  parts compatibility. I have paid attention to LGA 51, the socket and as much as I know but need corroboration so I don't end up with parts that do not fit or don't work together both size and functionality.

 

??Do you know how I can check this build's compatibility at PC PP or any site, or do I have to build it within PC PP which does not have all Micro Center parts.?

 

Thanks for the QVL link but I could not apply it to my situation.

Quote

If I ever get a router, and bridge my gateway's one, I will get one with AC technology.

Again, that will be a "wireless router". You can buy devices that are not wireless and they are called just, "routers". So if you go into a store and tell them you want a router and the clerk does not question you, you might get home and discover no wireless.
 

Thanks for the QVL link but I could not apply it to my situation.

What do you mean? All you do is look. If your CPU is listed, you are good. If your RAM has the same specs as listed, you are good. Your case is a mid-tower so that is big enough to hold everything and more.

Yes, I understand about both routers as I have an old wireless and had a wired one.

 

I'll give that link another try. It is testing for quality not compatibility, correct? Something like Underwriters Laboratory.

 

Do you know of any site where I can post my build to see if all is compatible?

 It is testing for quality not compatibility, correct?

 

Quality? Nothing tests for quality - except the professional hardware review sites.

 

Do you know of any site where I can post my build to see if all is compatible?

Huh? I already explained this in post #7 and again in #9.

OK I did not get the QVL link and as i said, "How do you enter the parts into PC Parts picker for compatibility  if the build was not created there?"

You start your own build. PCPartPicker is not a store. It is just a tool to help people pick parts for their builds.
 
How to use PCPartPicker.

I have made many builds there. My question is answered, the build I made at micro center cannot be used in PC PP.

Many of the parts are not available at PC PP for micro center.

Well, again, I don't see a problem with what you have. Your CPU is listed on the QVL and RAM with same specs as yours is listed. If you want, you can visit the Corsair website and enter that motherboard in their memory finder and verify that RAM that way too.