what do I need to do before selling a pc?
12 min read
Actually, Doug had it right. It depends on the type of license. And yes, you do own the disk, but that is just the media the software comes on. It is the license, which you also own, that dictates the terms of use. And you agreed to those terms when you decided to use the software.Agreed with above, but a few points to add\note, my understanding is you do not own the operating system, the disk\software is owned by M$, what you own is the licence to use that operating system, which is the sticker that should be applied to the case of the installed system, so when you sell the system on, the licence would go with it, because you would probably damage the sticker trying to remove it, thats my understanding anyway, but others may well know better.
If your copy of XP was a full "Retail" license - typically bought at a retail outlet like Best Buy, then you can keep the license and transfer that to your new machine, or you can sell it with this XP machine. But if your copy of XP came with your old computer and is an OEM/System Builder license, then it MUST stay with the computer it was originally installed on.
Understand, in terms of licensing, the motherboard is the considered the computer, not the hard drive.
Yes, the HD is the only thing that needs to be wiped. This will ensure there is none of your personal information remaining. Alternatively, you can methodically go in and uninstall all your personal programs and delete all your personal data, then run a "free space wipe". CCleaner's Disk Wiper feature allows you to do that. But you need to ensure you don't miss anything - a tedious process. For this reason, a full wipe is recommended, then a reinstall of the OS (or just give the disks and license key with it).Is the HD the only thing needing to be wiped before selling on a PC?
If so I was going to just replace the HD with a new one.
As far as buying a new hard drive, right now, that may not be a good idea. Due to major flooding in Thailand and neighboring countries, prices for hard drives are skyrocketing, almost hourly.
Depends on what you mean by "safely". If you mean in terms of security, after a "wipe" you can dispose of it anywhere. If you means in terms of contaminating the environment, most communities have electronics recycling centers.Where can I dispose of my old HD safely?
My advice depends on who you are going to sell this to. If to a stranger, then I would wipe the drive and give them the disk and license key (because this is a notebook, it is probably stuck on the bottom of the notebook case). If to a friend or relative you trust, uninstall all your installed programs and delete your personal data, defrag the drive then wipe the free space. Defragging will overwrite much of the used space and wiping the free space will ensure no residual information remains. If to a friend or relative with limited computer experience, I would also install Microsoft Security Essentials (MSE) so they have an effective anti-malware solution from the start.
Note as soon as the new user begins to use the computer, more and more of any remnants of your old data will be over written and the harder it will be for a badguy to recover it. Also understand that once you uninstall your programs and delete your personal data, it is highly unlikely anyone will "accidentally" stumble on to any of your personal information. It would take a badguy who is intentionally looking for it, using data recovery tools to find it. And even then, it likely would be only fragments. So a wipe is just to thwart the badguys.
Wow, that's one big sentence and I'm not sure what it says. Maybe I need another cup of coffee!Now as it's an xp system, it will depend on it's age as to if it came preloaded, and has a restore partition (often hidden), or if it had rescue disks or some other format to reset it, if it came preloaded or similar, replacing the hard drive would remove the operating system, assuming it was preloaded, then you would have a blank system, so replacing the drive, although perfect in many situations, may cause further issues after, so best advice if it has any kind of recovery solution, to restore the system to out of the box state (as though it's brand new) is the best way forward, select destructive restore if asked, it will wipe all your data, then when the new owner gets it they can add the owner details they want, and you will get a new operating system when buying a new system as said, hope this helps.
@ Ally - bottom line is this. If the OS is OEM (and being a notebook, it likely is), the OS must go with the computer (or be destroyed). If "Retail" you can keep it, but you must uninstall (or wipe) it from the computer.
To ensure none of your personal information gets in the wrong hands, wiping the drive is best, and easiest to do if you temporarily install or attach the drive, as a secondary drive (not boot) to another computer. This also gives you the opportunity to copy off any data files you want to keep.
Replacing the drive with a new one is likely to cost too much. People are not willing to pay much for used computers when new computers with modern operating systems can be had for just a few $100 anyway. And more and more software and modern peripherals won't even run on XP so many churches and other organizations can't even use the donated legacy hardware. So you might be better off just wiping the drive and donating the notebook and disks to Goodwill or Disabled Vets - who typically disassemble and sell the parts for copper and other precious metals.
Another option is to remove the hard drive and drill 3 holes all the way through the drive about 1 inch from the center spindle. This will destroy the platters in the drive and severely damage the drive's interface board. Then you can toss the drive, or better yet, take it to an electronics recycling center. Since 99.99% of all badguys are lazy bums, they are not going to waste their time or money on it and move on to easier pickings. If that remaining .01% is willing to take the time and effort, then they are targeting you specifically and you have bigger problems to deal with.
Any OEM disk should go with it.
Considering XP is not long for this World (support wise) An XP retail boxed disk might be sold if you like, or if your feeling really generous, also passed onto to a charity that deals with PC's.
It's a good feeling
Once is enough because DBAN performs several passes across the whole during the process.wipe the HD a couple of times with D-Ban
.Once is enough because DBAN performs several passes across the whole during the process
I'm not so sure.
I recently did just that for the first time, when before that I've always let DBAN complete to the "pass" notification.
When I interrupted DBAN before it finished the HDD was not recognized by the bios!
Maybe something to do with interrupting the wipe process?
I re-did it and let DBAN finish and it was fine, The first pass takes the longest, but after that it seems to complete the rest very quickly.
Cheers,
Lee
I'm sure that Digerati's recommendation is consistent with your own, and with your prior experience.
Selecting the least intensive "process" setting for DBAN and then using the (type) autonuke method for initiating DBAN should be sufficient for most users, unless they really do have "state secrets" saved on their HD and are fearful of a directed attack.
Starting with "autonuke" initiates a "process" of several "passes" conducted by DBAN.
DBAN alert the user when the combination of "passes" has completed and the selected "process" has done its full routine.
I don't see what you are disagreeing with. You interrupted the process! That has nothing to do with my comment, or with letting DBAN complete its process.I'm not so sure.
Who said anything even close to that? I totally confused now.So DBAN has an option to do just one pass? I didn't know that.
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